What do you get when you put an abandoned beachfront resort town, outdoor art exhibit built by trash and a drifter’s desert safe haven along the same strip of highway in eastern California? Quite possibly, the most rad roadtrip in America.
Exploring the Salton Sea region started as an off-the-beaten-path pitstop on the drive from Joshua Tree to San Diego. All it took was a glance at the hazy, unexpected ocean air lurking just past Palm Springs to realize this road trip pitstop was going to be something special. This stretch of California desert makes for one of the most unique American cultural experiences.
Whether you’re road tripping from LA to Palm Springs or San Diego to Joshua Tree, swing east of the Salton Sea to get a taste of this incredible California road trip for yourself.
BOMBAY BEACH & THE SALTON SEA
Drive from Palm Springs: 1 hr 11 mins
Bombay Beach was our first stop and introduction to this desolate, desert culture. Here’s a quick history lesson. Back in the 1950’s, Bombay Beach thrived as a destination targeted toward’s Hollywood elite. Strangely enough, the Salton Sea formed as a landlocked body of saltwater and attracted the very people who were posh enough to live on the actual ocean. Since it’s hay day, Bombay Beach has become more of a ghost town, filled with quirky art installations like the trippy drive-in theater that sports seating in broken speed boats, Ferris wheel benches and beyond. The Salton Sea is dissolving day by day, only further pushing the point to immediately add this itinerary to your travel bucketlist.
SLAB CITY
Drive from Bombay Beach: 28 min.
Drive from San Diego: 2 hr 30 min.
Slab City, plain and simple, is a strange place. One that’s unworldly, astonishing, and a once in a lifetime experience, especially in the United States. Come to think of it, the only place I could begin to compare Slab City to is Christiania in Copenhagen. Both “towns” began based on similar situations: abandoned military bases. These properties were eventually transformed into a squatter’s heaven, welcoming whoever wanted in.
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When you visit Slab City, here’s an idea of what you’re walking into. You’ll drive through the epitome of a small desert town, with streets lined with railroad tracks and trailer homes. Follow forth for five miles or so and you’ll be welcomed by the above sign. The land is currently owned, but unmonitored, by the California Teachers Retirement System with its name coming from the giant cement slabs that remain from the old military camp. Known as “The Last Free Place”, Slab City is a spot for those who wish to live simply and quietly.
The permanent resident population of the town today clocks in around 150 people but many more wanderers flock in for the cooler months and fly out come the scorching summer heat. There’s no electricity, running water or sewage services in Slab City so what you see is what you get. Expect to see tents, trailers, and other creatives takes on shelter. The people seemed friendly but you can’t help but feel like your trespassing or acting as a dark tourist in moments.
SALVATION MOUNTAIN
In the Slab City limits.
Right upon entering Slab City, you’ll see the billowing and bright Salvation mountain on your right. Salvation Mountain is a fascinating and stark man-made creation popping out of the desert terrain. The hillside is completely covered in latex paint, standing as a religious testament by a man searching for something. Clearly he found those answers in this art project dedicated to God. Bible verses are plastered throughout the property that you can free-range and wander, admiring the two-decade project by Leonard Knight.
EAST JESUS
In the Slab City limits.
There’s a pretty famous southern California Instagram photo that is bound to have graced your feed at some point. It’s an outdoor art installation with tons of old TVs - only the messaging isn’t Fox News or the Housewives of New Jersey. It’s a direct call out of the behaviors and performances that grace our screens each day. This is just one of the tens of art pieces and cultural commentary scattered across East Jesus. Oh, and did I mention that everything is built by trash? You can donate to the outdoor museum by admission is free.
All in all, this Southern California road trip along the Salton Sea will push you out of your comfort zone and have you questioning and thirsty for all things American travel.
More tips on Bombay Beach travel or Slab City tourism? Shoot them to talesofexploration@gmail.com.